Fassoulia: White Bean & Tomato Stew

Happy New Year...
Or more appropriately, Mutlu yıllar! (It's Turkish).

"My hairdresser says that everything this year is going to be Turkish..."



Hmm...I think someone may need a new hairdresser. As much as I love flamboyant feather hats and all things Turkish, my first recipe of 2017 is actually Arabic. So, kul 'am wa antum bikhair (happy new year to all). Let's travel (first class, obviously) to the Middle East for a gastronomic exploration of Fassoulia. A childhood favorite.

"Fassou-what?" you ask...

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TheMDChef Culinary Dictionary

FASSOULIA

Pronunciation: [FA-SOOL-YA], /ɸαśʉḷʎα/

Etymology: Latin phaseolus borrowed from ancient Greek φάσηλος (fasilos)

Noun

1.    فاصوليا  (Arabic): A bean, green bean, haricot bean, string bean

Like other members of the legume family, Fassoulia is a staple of a heart healthy Mediterranean style diet.

2.     Magnificent stew made from beans, tomato and spices

"Fassoulia is popular throughout the Mediterranean, especially countries like Syria, Lebanon, Egypt, Greece, and Libya."

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Fassoulia literally means "bean" in Arabic, which by no coincidence is the main ingredient in the stew bearing the same name. Variations of this bean and tomato dish are enjoyed by numerous countries along the Mediterranean. Lima beans, for example, are commonly used in Lebanon, whereas green beans and white beans are used in Armenia and Syria, respectively. Spices also vary by region and may include garlic, cumin, turmeric, and cinnamon. Chicken or beef is often added for a more substantial dish.

As Libyan Jews, we use Great Northern beans and boeuf. It's the quintessential cold weather comfort. It's how my family survived the bleak Jersey winters. Waking up every Saturday morning to the savory aroma of tomatoes and spices simmering for hours was hypnotizing. I'd spend those mornings camped out in the kitchen like a desperate puppy awaiting the opportune moment to sneak a taste when my mother was distracted.

Fassoulia remains my favorite winter staple despite living in the south. After six years, I've learned that "Hotlanta" is a cruel misnomer. "What-da-haale-lanta" if you ask me. It can be high 60's and sunny one day and then abruptly turn bitter cold and rainy the next.

While I never know whether to wear short sleeves or an oversized, fur-lined parka, my pantry is always stocked with the simple ingredients needed for Fassoulia...

Yes, my meticulous spice collection is excessive and meshugana, but don't fret. Even if you can't live up to Ina Garten and my ridiculous "basic" pantry standards, you can easily get all the ingredients at your local market.

It reheats well and tastes better and better as it sits, so it's a perfect stew to make ahead for the week. It's also straightforward to make and forgiving. Sure, the beans require soaking overnight, but it's worth it.

I love this dish and I want you to love it too. Fassoulia is a brilliant example of a dish that is both heart-healthy AND heart-warming. Legumes, such as white beans, are a staple of a Mediterranean style diet which has been shown to help reduce the risk of heart attacks and cardiovascular disease.

My family traditionally makes this dish with flanken, a glorious cut of short ribs butchered across the bone. It's a luxurious cut of meat for stews and worth trying for a special occasion. I usually substitute the flanken for beef chuck, which tends to be leaner and a bit healthier, but will still melt in your mouth!


Tips/Tricks to Make Perfect Fassoulia:

• The meat simmers for about an hour prior to adding the beans. Think of this as a spa treatment for your special cut of beef. Check that the meat is already fairly tender prior to adding your beans.
• This dish is best made a day ahead. The longer it sits, the richer the flavor will be.
• It tastes wonderful as a standalone stew, but also great over rice or couscous.
• Use a cast iron enamel dutch oven, such as Le Creuset, or another heavy bottomed stew pot to avoid your stew from burning 
• Experiment with your flavors. My family traditionally uses cumin, cayenne and garlic. I like to add turmeric and cinnamon as well and finish each bowl with freshly squeezed lemon juice for some acidity.  

Fassoulia Ingredients:

• 1 small onion, chopped (about 1 cup)
• 4 cloves garlic, chopped
• 2 tablespoons good olive oil
• 1.5 pounds chuck beef, cut into 1.5 to 2-inch chunks
• 8 cups water
• 1 cup dried Great Northern beans, soaked overnight and drained (should be around 2.5 cups)
• 2 tablespoons tomato paste
• 1 teaspoon cumin
• 1/2 teaspoon turmeric
• 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
• 1/4 teaspoon cayenne papper (optional)
• Kosher salt
• Freshly ground black pepper
• Cilantro, roughly chopped (for serving)
• Freshly squeezed lemon juice (for serving)

Fassoulia Recipe:
In a medium sized dutch oven or stockpot, sauté the onions over medium heat for 4 minutes. Add the garlic and cook 1-2 more minutes till onions are translucent.

Dry the beef cubes with a paper towel and sprinkle all sides with kosher salt. Add the meat and cook for 3-4 minutes, stirring occasionally until lightly browned. Add the 8 cups of water. Over medium-high heat bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer uncovered until meat has softened (~1 hour). Skim off any surface foam while cooking.


Add the white beans, 1 teaspoon kosher salt, tomato paste, cinnamon, cumin, turmeric, and cayenne (if using). Bring to a boil over over medium-high heat, reduce heat and simmer covered for 2 hours.

Remove lid and adjust seasoning with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Continue simmering uncovered until beans and meat are soft and tender, respectively, and the stew reaches desired thickness.


When ready to serve, add a splash of freshly squeezed lemon juice to each bowl and finish with a generous amount of cilantro.

Enjoy as a soup or serve with rice, couscous, ptitim (Israeli couscous), or crusty bread.

Hummus

Hummus is a spread made from chickpeas blended with tahini that is immensely popular throughout the Middle East. In Israel, it's everywhere. It is literally served at all times of the day as a delicious dip for pita bread or vegetables, a condiment for sandwiches, or my favorite, straight off a spoon (don't you juuudge me). The best part is it's an excellent source of fiber, protein, and good fat as part of a heart healthy Mediterranean style diet (read more on that here).

Thanks to brands such as Sabra, hummus has become mainstream in America and can be easily found at the grocery store. Sure, there are some pretty good brands of hummus on the market (if you're a basic bitch), but if you have not had homemade hummus you are missing out. It's life changing.

Families across Israel take tremendous pride in their hummus recipe and claim to have the best version...

They clearly have not tried mine.

But the truth is, everyone likes hummus slightly differently. Some prefer bits of intact chickpeas left in their hummus for added texture while others want it perfectly smooth. There are also varying degrees of garlic, lemon, and spice. I am personally in the perfectly smooth camp and I mean smooooth. I am also a minimalist and expect hummus to taste like chickpeas with just subtle notes of tahini, lemon, garlic and cumin. My hummus is adapted from a family recipe with inspiration from Jerusalem by my culinary idol Ottolenghi. He uses baking soda to help break down the chickpeas tough outer layer.

What the...Tahini
Before I get to the recipe, just a few words on this essential hummus ingredient. Tahini is a paste made from roasted sesame seeds and is what gives hummus its distinct nutty and creamy qualities. It most commonly comes in a jar, bottle or can and can be labeled as "tahini" or "tahina." They are equivalent. But not all tahini is created equally. There is definitely differences to taste, consistency and overall quality across brands. If this ingredient is foreign to you, it may be difficult (but is so important) to identify a quality tahini for your hummus. Try searching for products online with great reviews or find a Middle Eastern specialty store and ask for help. Otherwise just experiment with products till you find one you love. The tahini consistency should be slightly thinner than peanut butter, and similar to natural peanut butter, the oil separates and rises to the top. You must mix your tahini really well before using.

Tips/Tricks to Make Perfectly Creamy Hummus:

• Due to the simplicity of hummus, the highest quality ingredients are needed
• Each brand of chickpeas, olive oil, tahini vary in taste and texture, so it is important to taste as you go and don't be afraid to make adjustments 
• Hummus thickens as it cools, so save some of the reserved cooking liquid in case you need to thin the hummus the next day. But resist temptations to over thin the hummus. 
• Add ice to the reserved cooking liquid to chill it before combining with the other hummus ingredients for a lighter, fluffier end result.  
• Place a layer of plastic wrap directly over the hummus to prevent an unappetizing crusty layer from forming
• If serving the next day, allow hummus to sit at room temperature for 30 minutes prior to eating 

Hummus Ingredients:

• 1 1/4 cups dried chickpeas (250 g), soaked in water overnight (or at least 12 hours)
• 1 teaspoon baking soda
• 2/3 cup tahini (sesame seed paste)
• 1/3 cup really good olive oil + extra to serve
• 1 tablespoon ground cumin
• 1/2 tablespoon kosher salt + more to taste
• 4 garlic cloves, crushed
• 4 tablespoons fresh lemon juice + more to taste 
• 1/2 cup reserved chickpea cooking water, chilled with a handful of ice cubes (see below)
• Paprika for garnish
• Parsley, chopped for garnish

Hummus Recipe:
The night (or at least 12 hours) before, soak the dried chickpeas in plenty of cold water.  Drain the chickpeas.

Note, the dried chickpeas should roughly double in size after soaking (mine went from 250 g/1.25 cups  to 483 grams/3.5 cups)

Heat a saucepan over high heat. Add the chickpeas and baking soda and mix constantly for 3 minutes. Add 6.5 cups of water and bring to a rapid boil. Skim off any foam or chickpea skins that float to the top. Reduce heat slightly to maintain a gentle boil and cook chickpeas till soft. The chickpeas are done when easily squished between your fingertips. (Mine were perfect at 25 minutes, but depending on your chickpeas it may take 20 to 40 minutes, or longer).

Drain the chickpeas, setting aside 1/2 cup of the cooking liquid. Add a handful of ice cubes to the reserved cooking liquid to chill.

Place the chickpeas in a food processor and pulse until completely broken down and a thick paste is formed. Use a spoon to scrape down the edges if needed.

Add the tahini, lemon juice, olive oil, garlic, cumin, and salt. Blend till well combined (about 1 minute).  While continuing to blend, slowly add 1/3 cup of the reserved cooking liquid. Blend for 2 minutes (yes two entire minutes).

Stop and check the consistency of your hummus. Add more of the reserved cooking liquid, 1 tablespoon at a time, until you reached the desired consistency. (I add about 3 tablespoons). If you stick your finger through the hummus, your imprint should remain. Blend for an additional 1-2 minutes until the hummus is fluffy and very smooth.

Taste the hummus and adjust the flavors with extra lemon juice and salt if necessary. Transfer to a bowl and allow to rest for at least 30 minutes before serving. (Keep covered with plastic wrap to prevent crusting). 

When ready to eat, use a spoon to form a crater through the hummus and pour in flavorful olive oil. Sprinkle with paprika and chopped parsley. Serve with vegetables or pita bread.