Saffron & Mushroom Cauliflower "Couscous"

Happy belated Mother's Day to all of the amazing moms out there! I had a wonderful time with mama Ina in the Hamptons cooking up our favorite treats for Jeffrey...

Well, I wish...

I did, however, enjoy reading through Ina's latest book, Cooking for Jeffrey, which is a tribute to her 50 year partnership to Jeffrey.

It offers a glimpse into their marriage and shares recipes she's cooked for him over the years. Every page illustrates Ina's unconditional and eternal love for Jeffrey, unaffected by her fame, fortunate, or army of hot gay men at her side. It's one of my favorites!

Though I didn't get my dream date with Ina and Jeffrey, I did spend the week in NYC celebrating with my beautiful birth mother, family and friends.

Somehow I was given free reign over choosing the restaurants this year. That's like letting a misbehaved toddler run loose in a candy store. I had no restraint as I added high end restaurant after restaurant onto our "itinerary." (See below). At least it's organized, but also dangerously bordering pathologic.

Sure, I was teased and taunted a bit for my itinerary, but the food. Sigh. Let's just say it was beyond words...at least any words a measly Biology major who struggled through a single college writing course could muster. There were so many sensational experiences but my favorites (in ascending order) were Nix, Gotham Bar and Grill, Dovetail, Annisa, Le Bernardin, Jungsik, and of course, Eleven Madison Park.

I even got to meet Eric Ripert and Anita Lo at their restaurants! Yes, feel free to be jealous...that is until the debt collectors come slamming on my door

But in all seriousness, while I certainly enjoy Michelin-starred establishments, I'd choose delivery from a Piźa Haute chain any day if it meant dining with my friends and family.

Though I love dining out with friends, my favorite option is always to cook for them myself. Like Ina, nothing brings me more pleasure than preparing a simple, intimate meal for my loved ones, my "Jeffries."

However, not every relationship is as fairy tale as Ina and Jeffrey's, and not all good things last. I have always wanted to be honest on here, so I'm sharing that recently, I've had to learn to be my own Jeffrey.

As my own Jeffrey, I've re-discovered joy and excitement in being kind and loving to myself. In addition to getting back to the gym, taking spa days, and snapping a few shameless selfies, I created a dish to represent me - my quirks, borderline manic passions, and love for lavish ingredients.

I ventured to Whole Foods without a plan, but almost instinctively envisioned a cauliflower couscous elevated with morels, wild mushrooms, saffron, and fresh herbs. Basically all my favorite ingredients.

After weeks of tweaking and force feeding cauliflower to my friends, I'm excited to share my masterpiece. It's great as both a meal or a side dish. Just be sure to make extra because you'll be hooked...I've literally eaten it nonstop for 3 weeks.

The couscous is not only comforting and delicious, it's also healthy. It's entirely made of veggies, herbs, nuts, and EVOO...basically making it the poster child for the Mediterranean diet. That means, it's good for your heart AND can help prevent heart disease. (Click to read more).

Believe me, I very strongly dislike "diet foods." I'm a proponent for moderation, so if I occasionally want a slice of pizza, you better give me a goddamn slice of pizza. Don't even think about serving some imitation crust to this NYC Jew. Not gonna happen. Not on my watch!

With that being said, this cauliflower recipe is special. Whether it tastes like couscous to you or not is irrelevant. It's addictive. I've made the recipe over a dozen times and it's always a hit.

I hope you enjoy it as much as I do. Please let me know on social media or in the comments below!

Tips/Tricks to Make the Perfect Cauliflower "Couscous"

• After reconstituting dried mushrooms, save the wonderful broth
• It's great for stocks and recipes. 
• Just be sure to pass it through a coffee filter to remove dirt and debris
• Morels add a pretentious factor to the dish, but if you can't find them or are a reasonable person that doesn't want to spend 20 dollars on a tiny bag, just replace them with more wild mushrooms
•  A food processor is preferred for a finer, couscous consistency
• Box graters will work just fine, though. Just expect a slightly larger "grain"
• Flavors vary considerably depending on the size of your cauliflower and your ingredients
• Be sure to season to taste with more or less salt, pepper, and lemon
• Have fun and create your own versions. There's endless options. Share your favorites! 
• Try the couscous with my salmon chriameh. The sauce and cauliflower are perfect together

Cauliflower "Couscous" Ingredients

• 1 head cauliflower (medium to large), cored, broken into small florets
• 1 1/2 ounces dried mushrooms (morels + any assortment of other wild species)
• Roughly half from dried morels (~3/4 to 1 ounces)
• Remaining portion from other wild species (porcini, chanterelle, lobster, morels, etc)
• 3 garlic cloves, minced
• 1/2 (generous) teaspoon saffron threads 
• 2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves
• 8 tablespoons good olive oil
• 1/3 cup fresh parsley, chopped
• 1/3 cup thinly sliced scallions, white and green parts
• 1/3 cup toasted almonds, roughly chopped
• Zest of 1 lemon (about 1 tablespoon)
• 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
• 2 teaspoons kosher salt
• Freshly ground black pepper

Cauliflower "Couscous" Recipe
Reconstitute the mushrooms:
Place the dried mushrooms in a medium sized bowl and pour 2 cups boiling water over them. Soak for at least 30 minutes.

With a slotted spoon, scoop the mushrooms out of the water. (Don't pour the liquid and mushrooms directly through a strainer to avoid re-soiling the mushrooms with dirt and debris that settled at the bottom of the bowl).

Rinse the mushrooms under cold water to remove any remaining grit and drain. (Nobody wants to eat sand for dinner). The mushrooms may vary in size. Cut any large mushrooms into 2 or 3 pieces. Set aside.

Steep the saffron:
Place saffron threads in a small bowl and soak with 8 tablespoons boiling water. Allow saffron to steep for 30 minutes. Set aside.

Prepare the cauliflower:
Place cauliflower florets into a food processor fitted with the standard S-shaped blade. Carefully pulse until all the florets are broken down and resemble couscous. Do not pulse beyond that point.

To make the "couscous"
In a large, heavy bottomed sauté pan or dutch oven (I use a 5 quart dutch oven from Le Creuset), heat 6 tablespoons of olive oil over medium-low heat. Add the mushrooms and thyme and cook for 3 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for an additional 2 to 3 minutes, till the mushrooms are at desired doneness. Remove the mushrooms and garlic with a slotted spoon and set aside, but leave the excess olive oil in the heated pan.

Immediately add the grated cauliflower to the pan, stirring to combine with the oil. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil, 2 teaspoons kosher salt, and a few grinds of black pepper to the cauliflower and cook over medium heat for 2 minutes. Using a large spoon, occasionally fluff rather than stir as you would couscous.

Stir in the saffron liquid and threads and cook for approximately 5 minutes, until cooked through. There should be no residual raw cauliflower flavor. As far as the texture, it should be softened, but not mushy. I like it to maintain a slight bite.

Remove from the heat and gently fold in the parsley, scallions, lemon zest, lemon juice, almonds, and mushrooms. Allow the flavors to blend together for about 5 minutes before serving.

Pistachio and Pine Nut Crusted Halibut with Parsley and Arugula Vichyssoise

Over the last week, I've thrown four dinner parties in four different kitchens. (Pith has nothing on me). Before you ask me how I've had time to cook and entertain so much with a busy work schedule, I've been on vacation in NYC this week. No, I'm not omnipresent. (And yes, I'm still employed)!

On Wednesday, I made dinner for my Hopkins besties (plus one spouse) instead of our usual "sushi with my girls" night. I wanted to really impress them, but had a few dietary restrictions to work with, including pescatarian, kosher, and gluten free.  Fish seemed to be a wise choice. Not only is fish delicious, it's also heart healthy. The American Heart Association recommends eating a variety of fish at least twice per week, especially those rich in omega-3 fatty acids. Fortunately, there are endless ways to cook fish, so plenty of awesome posts to come! I had been meaning to try this recipe from Ottolenghi's Nopi, so I got really excited when I found this beautiful (sustainably sourced) halibut.

The recipe is a pistachio and pine nut crusted halibut with parsley and arugula vichyssoise. My friends and I could hardly pronounce it (we just called it the "vichy-what-what" or "vichy-vichy"), but a vichyssoise (vih-she-swah) is classically a puree of leeks, onions, and potatoes. This recipe also adds spinach, parsley, and wild arugula. I unfortunately could not find wild arugula, which has a stronger flavor, so I used baby arugula with great results. It's always okay to improvise.

The vichyssoise can be made ahead of time and also makes a ridiculously tasty soup. I brought my sister home some leftovers and she needed the recipe. She couldn't believe that it was so creamy with no added dairy. It's simple to make and is basically just sautéed veggies simmered in chicken broth (or vegetable broth if making vegetarian) and then pureed. The recipe calls for butter to sauté the vegetables, but I swapped it out for olive oil at the last minute with great results. The only place butter cannot be substituted is for the nut crust (details below).

I was pressed for time, so I grabbed a block of parmesan, some garlicky olives, and plenty of wine to serve as an appetizer. It was simple, tasty, and most importantly, kept the hangry guests at bay while I plated the fish. I also made a charred corn salad with jalapeño, red onion, lime juice, cilantro and parsley which was fresh, light and perfect with this dish. 

Thank you Nikki and Geoff for volunteering your beautiful home and Danielle for being a great sous chef (I know I'm bossy in the kitchen). And Jamie... 

Tips/Tricks to Make the Perfect Pistachio and Pine Nut Crusted Halibut:

• Save this recipe for when you find fresh looking halibut. I have several meals planned before I go to to the market, and choose one based on which ingredients look best that day. 
• Become friendly with your fishmonger and don't be shy.
• "What's fresh today?" is a totally acceptable question.
• Request a center cut of fish (aka not the tail/end which is thinner and narrower). They often have more fish in the back if what you want is not displayed.
• Specify what you need. They have a lot more practice skinning and portioning fish.
• Ask them to put the fish over ice so it stays happy on the drive home.
• Leave yourself enough time. 
• This recipe is simple, but is somewhat time consuming (took me about 3 hours).
• Consider making the vichyssoise and butter a day ahead. Then you'll only have to cook the fish (takes less than 10 minutes) the day of your dinner.
• If you want a completely smooth sauce, pass the vichyssoise threw a sieve. I blended mine with a Vitamix and thought it tasted perfect without the added step.
• You will definitely be teased for using radishes just as garnish. They're beautiful and worth it. 
• Do not cook with wax paper instead of parchment paper...Oh lawd jesus there's a fire.
  (Thank you Geoff for keeping the girls calm)
  

Tools You'll Need:

• Blender or food processor
• Sieve
• Parchment paper
• Medium saucepan
• Small baking sheet (about 6 x 8 inches) or make one out of tin foil
• Half sheet pan

Parsley and Arugula Vichyssoise Ingredients:

• 3 1/2 ounces parsley stems and leaves, blanched and chopped (instructions below) 
• 5 1/4 ounces wild arugula, blanched and chopped (instructions below) 
• 1/4 cup olive oil (or 1 Tbsp olive oil and 3 Tbsp unsalted butter per original recipe)
• 2 medium shallots, coarsely chopped (3 1/2 ounces)
• 3 cloves garlic, minced or crushed
• 1 medium leek, green and white parts, thinly sliced (7 ounces)
• 2 large potatoes (russet or an all-purpose), peeled and roughly diced (13 ounces)
• 4 1/2 cups chicken or vegetable stock (preferably homemade, but store bought is fine)
• 1 ounce spinach leaves
  

Pistachio and Pine Nut Crust Ingredients:

• 10 tablespoons unsalted butter, roughly diced
• 2 ounces shelled pistachios, lightly toasted and coarsely chopped
• 2 ounces pine nuts, lightly toasted and coarsely chopped
• 1/4 teaspoon fine sugar
• 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
  

Halibut Recipe Ingredients:

• 6 halibut fillets, skinless and boneless (6 ounces each, 2 pounds 1/4 ounces total)
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
• 6 radishes, halved, leaves and tips left on
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  

Serves 6 as a main course

Pistachio and Pine Nut Crusted Halibut with Vichyssoise Recipe:

To Make the Nut Butter:

Place the butter for the nut crust in a medium saucepan and cook for 4 minutes over medium-high heat, until golden brown. Remove from the heat and pass through a sieve to remove any brown bits. In a bowl, add the butter, pistachios, pine nuts, sugar, lemon juice, and 1/4 teaspoon of kosher salt. Spread the mixture evenly on a small baking sheet (about 6 x 8 inches) lined with parchment paper and chill in the fridge for 2-3 hours (or overnight). Once firm, cut the butter into 6 equal (halibut shaped) rectangles and return to the fridge until ready to use. 

To Make the Vichyssoise:

Bring a medium saucepan with salted water to a boil. Blanch the parsley and arugula for 30 seconds and then immediately transfer to an ice water bath. Once cool, strain and squeeze with a kitchen towel to dry. Coarsely chop.

Place olive oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat and sauté shallots for 4-5 minutes until soft, but not browned. Add the garlic and leek and cook for another 2-3 minutes. Add the potatoes and cook for 5-6 minutes, stirring frequently, until shiny. Add the chicken or vegetable stock and bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then lower temperature and simmer for 8-10 minutes, until cooked but retaining a bite. Add the blanched parsley and arugula and cook for 1 minute. Remove from heat and add the spinach, 1.5 teaspoons of kosher salt, and a few grinds of black pepper. Let cool slightly. In batches, transfer to blender or food processor and blitz until completely smooth. Season to taste and set aside until ready to use.

To Make the Halibut:

Gently warm the vichyssoise sauce on the stovetop. Preheat the broiler to 400 degrees or to its highest setting. Spread the halibut on a parchment-lined baking sheet and coat with 2 tablespoons of olive oil, 1.5 teaspoons of kosher salt, and a good grind of black pepper. Roast in the oven for 6 minutes, until almost cooked. Remove fish and immediately lay a rectangle of nut butter on top of each fillet, then return to the oven and cook for a final 2 minutes. Remove from the oven and squeeze the lemon juice evenly over the fillets.  

While the fish is cooking, spoon warmed vichyssoise into 6 shallow wide bowls. Once ready, lay a halibut fillet on top of each bowl, place a radish for garnish, and serve immediately.

Salmon in Chriameh Sauce

To start, I'm of Libyan-Jewish background and I grew up eating a dish called chriameh, which is fish cooked in a spicy tomato sauce.  I have fond memories of my Libyan-grandmother making mass quantities for Shabbat dinner to serve her 16 children (plus their spouses, children and grandchildren). It was astonishing.

On a whim, I tried Yotam Ottolenghi's version from his book Jerusalem. It has similar ingredients to my own family "recipe," but is different as ours is not written down anywhere and measurements are all eyeballed. I've had many friends request my chriameh recipe, but giving instructions on a dish with very imprecise quantities is challenging. But now, thanks to the brilliant Ottolenghi (you'll eventually realize I am slightly obsessed), I have found the perfect recipe to recommend to my friends, patients, and (blog readers? ha)... It's savory. It's spicy. It's the real deal!  Guaranteed to make you feel warm and happy inside. And it's also good for you!

[Tangent] Many (but not all) my dishes focus on heart-healthy, often Mediterranean style foods. If you couldn't guess from the blog name, I'm an Internal Medicine resident at Emory University with an interest in Preventative Medicine and Cardiology. Healthy cooking (without sacrificing taste) is right up my alley, so that's sort of the direction I plan to focus my blogging. Though I have some great..uhh..less healthy recipes that are too good not to share. Life's all about moderation, right?
  

Anyway, back to the chriameh...Though we usually serve this fish as an appetizer on Friday evenings, it most definitely can (and should) be made as a main course. Truthfully, it deserves all the limelight! It should be served with couscous, rice, challah bread, or even matzo on Passover. Really any vessel that allows you to enjoy every last lick of delicious red sauce is appropriate. It's traditionally served with white fish (sea bass, halibut, snapper, tilapia, etc), but I very much prefer making it with salmon. Salmon is my favorite fish (probably food in general), so many more salmon posts to come! You should cook the dish in a large, round frying pan with a lid. I used a 3 quart cast iron enamel paella pan, but any pan that distributes heat evenly is perfect.

Below is the recipe, but first here are a few tricks/tips to make the perfect salmon chriameh. 

1. Quality salmon is best enjoyed medium-rare (or rarer).
•  It's okay to prepare the sauce ahead of time, but the salmon should be cooked just before serving!
• I suggest only cooking the fish for 7 minutes as it will continue to cook in its sauce.
2. For those making this in advanced for Shabbat and plan to use a warming plate, you should significantly cut back on the cooking time or you'll dry out the fish!
• There are very few things worse than dry fish.
• At least for salmon chriameh, I'd probably keep the fish close to raw in the middle as it will continue cooking on the warmer for several hours before it's served. This should result in a beautiful salmon cooked to medium rather than a well-done misery. Gross.
3. White fish dries out quite easily.
•  So cook times are especially important!
• I'd still recommend salmon, though, for its superior taste as well as its "good" fats.
4. This recipe is not complicated, but has a bunch of ingredients. I always do all the prep before starting so that I have a mise en place to keep me organized.
1. Measure out all spices ahead of time and organize them into mini bowls or a little platter
2. Wash, cut, peal, etc any veggies
3. Read the recipe in its entirely at least once before starting

Chriameh Ingredients:

• Scant 1/2 cup sunflower oil (I prefer olive oil)
• 3 tbsp all-purpose flour (Optional. I generally omit)
• 1 lb salmon fillets (skin on) cut into 3-4 equal sized pieces
• Alternatively may use white fish (sea bass, halibut, snapper, tilapia, etc)
• 6 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
• 2 tsp sweet paprika
• 1 tbsp caraway seeds, dry toasted and freshly ground (fresh pre-ground spices are ok if grinding isn't your idea of fun, but worth trying at some point)
• 1 1/2 tsp ground cumin
• 1/4 tsp cayenne pepper (a bit more if you want it extra spicy)
• 1/4 tsp ground cinnamon
• 1 green chili, coarsely chopped
• 2/3 cup water
• 3 tbsp tomato paste
• 2 tsp superfine sugar
• 1 lemon, cut into 4 wedges, plus 2 tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice
• 2 tbsp coarsely chopped cilantro
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Chriameh Recipe:

• Heat 2 tablespoons of oil over high heat in a large frying pan with a lid
• (Option 1): Place the flour in a shallow bowl seasoned generously with salt and pepper
• Toss the fish in it
• Shake off the excess flour
• (Option 2): Skip the flour and just season both sides of fish with salt and pepper
• Sear the fish for a minute or two on each side, until golden
• Remove the fish and wipe the pan clean
• Place garlic, spices, chili and 2 tablespoons of oil in a food processor and blitz to form a thick paste. Add a bit more oil if needed to combine the ingredients
• Pour the remaining oil in the frying pan, heat well, and add the spice paste
• Stir and fry for just 30 seconds, so that the spices don't burn
• Carefully add the water and tomato paste to stop the spices from cooking further
• Bring the sauce to a simmer and add sugar, lemon juice, 3/4 teaspoon salt, and some pepper
• Season to taste
• Put the fish in the sauce, bring to a gentle simmer, cover the pan and cook for 7 to 11 minutes
• Cook time will vary depending on thickness of fish, but cook till just done (or slightly under done)
• Remove the pan from heat, take off the lid, and allow to cool slightly
• Serve the fish just warm or at room temperature with cilantro and lemon wedges as garnish